chrysler 2.4 timing belt tensioner installation

It is sometimes assumed that if you put new aftermarket cams in your engine, they will work fine. You were lucky/good enough to see it and know it was not good for the belt to do that! Most people changing cams and springs, especially if they are paying someone else to do the wrenching for them, may not have that benefit and may very well be pulling it down later, to fix the problem. so there is no room for it to pivot, (flop), then it is like running a solid, fixed tensioner, which I am OK with. There is a new set of plastic covers to go with this setup too, I'm not sure you can cut the stock ones and still keep them in one piece.īstockum wrote:If you slot the mount and move the spring type tensioner. You can't even see the darn thing on the PT, it is so tight in there! I have just finished 10 of the spacers, if anyone would rather buy them than try to make them, $25 + shipping & handling, (~ $7). It bolts to the front cover and is spaced up 1' by the spacer pictured here with two holes in it. Pictured here is the hydraulic tensioner, my cheesy drawing. Instead of the tensioner wheel mounting on the bracket (Neon style), it mounts to the boss on the left side of the water pump. It retards your ex cam! In an extreme condition the int and ex valves could hit each other and mess up your day! 001 of a second later), that tooth stretches out and adds to the centerlines between the intake and ex cams and you run like crap from then on. As soon as the cam rotates another 90 degrees, (about one. it has been reported that the cam has 'looped the belt', which means that enough slack has gathered on the tensioner side, (cause it wouldn't hold), to pick up or gain a tooth on the exhaust cam. This problem has just begun to surface on the PT's with cams and springs heavier than stock, so all the info and numbers for a complete conversion are being gathered right now. If you are converting from a 2.0L, then you have most of the parts needed except for the water pump and the spacer. Oh, that is a Modern Performance 60mm TB for my car. I just finished 10 of the spacer blocks if anyone needs them. You will of course need some longer bolts to mount it up. This will mount on the milled spot of the front cover. Two 3/8' holes 2 9/16' center to center, drilled through with the bar (spacer), standing on the 1' side. Then, to mount your hydraulic tensioner unit, you need to make an aluminum spacer that is 3 3/8' long, 1' tall and 3/4' wide. This requires a water pump, with a BOSS cast on it that mounts the Neon style tensioner to the water pump. Some of the same parts as the Neon, but a diff mounting setup. Some of the 2.4's, like the 96 Caravan, came with a Hydraulic tensioner setup. Then there is a metallic clatter up front and very rough idle. It seems to happen silently, until the nylon breaks or wears out. This plays hell with cam timing and can contribute to belt wear/breakage.

The only thing restraining the cam is a nylon spacer, built into the tensioner. The spring in the unit seems to be overpowered, allowing the exhaust cam to 'flip' back and forth, when the engine is running. Some of you may be getting by with the spring loaded setup, I just wanted you guys to know there have been failures of this assembly. It has come to my attention that the 'one piece swivel type tensioner' may not be up to the task on the 2.4, if you have the heavier valve springs and cams. The PT application is VERY cramped/close, so the (hydr self adj system), seems to fit the bill better, but it is more money. can you get to it on your car to readjust the belt tension every once and a while?. so there are way too many choices and the reasons for picking one over the other really hinge on you adjusting it yourself or it being self adjusting. Bstockum wrote:On the tensioner stuff, it seems that three different 'fixes' showed up at about the same time - the wedge block from BD, the 97 hydraulic self adjusting assemblies, (Old Chrysler), and Mopars revisit of the 2.2/2.5 solid wheel.

Chrysler 2.4 timing belt tensioner installation